Córdoba is rich in history and has so many hidden patios and gardens to discover, that you’ll feel as though you are on a scavenger hunt, back in time.
You can stop off here on a road trip or arrive easily by train in 40mins from Sevilla and spend a day; but if you have the time, we think two days is the sweet spot. It will allow you to take your time and do what Córdoba is intended to do… allow you to relax.
Initially Córdoba was a Carthaginian settlement. The Romans took hold in the 2nd century BC until the moors seized control and was under Arab rule from the 8th to 13th century. This was when the city expanded and flourished. Many Jewish people also settled here and created their own thriving community.
This port city was full of riches that came off the boats from Africa, Europe, and the middle east. They had a bounty of spices, olives, fruits, and perfumes along with artisans producing leather goods, textiles, metal, and tilework. They call these the glory years, and around the 10th century it became the largest city in Europe with close to a million people (350,000 today). While many parts of Spain were going through hardship, mosques and palaces with indoor plumbing were multiplying. In 1236 they lost power over Córdoba, and it became part of Christian leadership under Castilian King Ferdinand III.
The history of Córdoba attributes to the multicultural blend of architecture and cuisine and is what makes this city worth exploring. In fact, it has 4 UNESCO world heritage sites, which is more than any other city!
Córdoba is located on the Guadalquivir River in Andalusia in the South of Spain. It has very hot summers and mild winters. It is about 1.5hrs from the sea, so if you are going during the warmest months, I recommend trying to find a place with a pool or do most your site-seeing during the morning and later hours in the day. I honestly can’t imagine going during the summer, we went there at the beginning of October and we were sweating. Luckily, there are many places with shaded courtyards and lots of mint tea and sangria to quench your thirst.
To get the most out of the time you have, I would make your home base in the Historic centre. The city is mostly flat, and you can reach all the main points of interest by foot. We stayed in the Juderia (Jewish neighborhood) and loved it! San Basilio (Alcazar Viejo) is the other area that we would enjoy staying.
Here are our top choices of things to do if you have 2 days in Córdoba, along with some options of places we enjoyed eating and sipping on cocktails.
1. Strolling The Jewish Quarter
Take your time and walk around the enchanting pedestrian streets and see this well preserved area which was named part a UNESCO site. Córdoba is a safe place to visit, so have fun and let yourself get lost down its winding narrow alley ways. You will stumble upon many picture worthy settings.
2. Calleja de las Flores (Alley of the Flowers)
Sounds pretty, doesn’t it? We made a point to seek this out. Some say it’s a secret, although that is no longer true. It is a cute flower filled alley with a nice shot of the Cathedral bell tower peeking through its center. Very close by is Handkerchief Alley, meaning the width of the alley. You will most certainly know when you find it. The Jewish quarter was built during Moorish times before city street planning fully developed, so quirky things like this and dead end streets are all part of the charm.
3. El Zoco/The Souk (Mercado de la Artesanía)
This market has been around for centuries and is full of artisans selling their handcrafted goods in a manor with a charming courtyard. You can watch them build their crafts and find that little something special to take back home.
4. Almodóver Gate
This is the only surviving gate from the nine that acted as the entrance to the city that was built between 936-1031. The wall is 12 meters high with arches that reach a height of 30 meters. It looked particularly mysterious after dark.
5. Have long leisurely meals and try some of Córdoba’s dishes… And maybe a fun night out!
Taberna D’Ucles
Taberna D’Ucles has traditional Córdoba dishes, good prices and a beautiful interior. We sat there for a couple hours savoring every bite! We started with their house salad that was so unique and delicious, and fried eggplant & honey (I never knew eggplant could taste this good!). For our mains, we had Oxtail stew and a lamb tagine with plums and almonds. We were in flavour heaven! This is up there in my top 5 places we ate in Spain.
*little tip. You will get the best deal, if you order their specials of the day or dinner for two, this often includes dessert and wine. Also, have your translate app ready to help you with the menu. Some servers speak English, but it is nice to take your time and learn about your options.
Vo-Raz De Julio
Vo-Raz De Julio does Spanish flavours in an innovative way that pleases the eyes and the senses. The patatas bravas, Somorejo (Córdoban tomato chilled soup) and pork cheek nachos were a hit. Hands down, this Julio Romero themed restaurant was, the best customer service we experienced during our time in Córdoba. We felt instantly taken care of and had the best night hanging out at this funky place listening to the DJ play great music and sipping cocktails in the most hilarious vessels ever! If they didn’t weigh a ton, I probably would have tried my best to haggle one off them!
Casa Pedro Ximénez
Make sure to book a reservation up on the rooftop terrace ahead of time. The terrace is a romantic spot for dinner with a view of the Cathedral bell tower. Try the croquettes, grilled octopus, and duck dish. We ran out of room for dessert, but it all looked so very tempting!
Sojo Fusión
We enjoyed lunch outside under the orange trees with a lovely breeze and the quintessential spot to people watch and sip sangria. The inside was airconditioned and was well decorated with large windows that presented a light and airy feel. It is located just off the banks of the Guadalquivir River, so it is a good spot to have a rest before checking out some of the sites nearby.
Sojo Ribera
I just realized as I was writing this, that this place is connected to Sojo Fusión… funny how we were drawn to both places. We try to get out and let loose on vacation and had read about this Bar a few times, so we scouted it out. You must find the carpark’s elevator to reach the top… which added intrigue. Once you start walking around, you’ll become aware that there are some options ahead of you… they have a variety of themed rooms, areas to smoke shisha pipes and a terrace with a view of the river and the Roman Bridge. They are dialed into entertaining people all year round! It might be more geared to the younger crowd, but heck… aren’t we all young at heart anyway?
6. Alcazar De Los Reyes Cristianos
Alcazar De Los Reyes Cristianos is a UNESCO Heritage site. The gardens and fountains are up there with the one in Sevilla… some even say they prefer it, but Sevilla takes the win for us. It was a peaceful place to have a stroll and appreciate the well-manicured grounds.
7. Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba
This church is awe-inspiring! We appreciate architecture and all the talent and skill that goes into constructing a place of this magnitude. Tyler is a carpenter, and I was an electrician for years, so we have a huge admiration for what is involved in creating these structures and fine details. Even if you’re a person who isn’t normally interested in churches, you might want to make this one an exception.
The Mosque was originally built in 785 and is a symbiotic representation of Moorish design. In 1236 it was taken over and made into a cathedral. They kept a lot of the original architecture in place but erected a Baroque Cathedral in the middle. It has been inscribed a UNESCO heritage site in 1984.
8. Flamenco Show
This is such a special way to get a look into the passion of the Spanish people and this traditional way of storey telling and expressing emotion. There are a few places in the city to choose from that include dinner with a show. We had already booked one in Sevilla, but we were walking past a place one evening when a show was being performed and it appeared to create a positive reaction with the people.
9. Roman Bridge and Gate (Puente Romano, Puerta del Puente)
I am combining these two because they are across from one another. We looked at them during the day and at night and I think it is beautiful both times of day.
Walk to the center of the bridge, during the day to get one of the best views of the city. If you walk to the other side of the bridge, you can find the Calahorra Tower and go up to the top to get an even more expansive view of the area.
10. Hammam/Arab Bath and Spa
Hammam/Arab Bath and Spa is an excellent way to escape the heat of the day and enjoy a relaxing steam bath, thermal pool, aromatherapy, and specialized treatments. Book in advance if this is something you think you’d enjoy.
11. Palacio De Viana
Here you can get a peek into 12 different private patios and the grounds of a well preserved manor, giving you a good representation as to how the people of Córdoba used to live. It was inhabited from 1425-1980.
12. Plaza de la Corredera
I wouldn’t put this on the top of my list, but you can easily pass through and have a look. It was quiet when we went by. Historically, bull fights and executions took place there, now it is a residential area with some cafés and a site for festivities.
13. Plaza de la Tendillas
Plaza de la Tendillas is a large busy square where many people gather and many of the city’s celebrations take place. It is bordering the Historic Center and the Financial District. The Christmas market here, is a favorite amongst the locals and tourists. Two of the more well-known shopping streets are close by. This Centro area is more modern and is favoured with people who enjoy shopping and a busy nightlife.
14. Patios De Cordoba Festival
This one is for anyone planning to visit Córdoba in the Springtime. Check for the exact dates, but this tends to take place the first two weeks of May. During this time, the local people open their courtyards for everyone to see, for a fee that is. A competition of who has the best display of flowers is conducted. You will see flowers bursting out of beds and hanging from the walls all the way to the top of their houses… how they get up there to water them, is beyond me? Many Flamenco shows are performed in these courtyards. This is the 4thof the UNESCO sites in Córdoba.
*Even if you go at other times of the year, you will still see flowers hung all over… and some places will have signs stating that people can enter.
*If you find yourself confused because you can’t find limes in the local stores, just walk the streets, and look up! We laughed at ourselves when we realized there were so many lime trees around… we had gone to a few stores trying to find some to purchase and couldn’t understand why no one sold them.
*If possible, I would avoid visiting on a Monday. Many of the places are closed.
Córdoba is a unique place. We appreciated all the historical elements of the city, and really enjoyed the cuisine and beautiful courtyards and gardens. Visiting a place in Spain with less tourists and crowds allowed for a relaxing few days. To be honest, there are many other places in Spain that we thought had more appealing surroundings and we felt more connected to.
Thanxs for Stopping By!
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