Oaxaca is a special place. It is a multi-diverse city made up of 16 indigenous communities, all bringing colour to life through their individual traditions. This is expressed through artistry, dancing, spiritual practices, and culinary delights. The Oaxaqueños take pride in preserving their customs, and luck has it that many of these traditions correlate throughout the festivals that are celebrated in Oaxaca for all to see!
First things first… Oaxaca is pronounced Waa-Haa-kuh.
Oaxaca City is in the state of Oaxaca which resides in south-western Mexico. It is a quick 1-hour flight from Mexico City, or a 6hr drive (bus is 7-8hrs). The city itself is inland.
Whether you are just curious about this place or are in a deep dive getting ready to go there, I am happy to share with you, our favourite things to do in this unique spot on the map!
1. Get yourself signed up to a free walking tour.
It is like having an instant friend for a couple of hours 🙂 showing you around their city giving you all the best tips, plus a bunch of cool information and history of the area.
Our tour guide Raul had a warmth about him. He was passionate about Oaxaca and truly made our day memorable. He curated a tour, that left us feeling like we had a better understanding and appreciation for our surroundings.
We stopped at many important historical sites and an art gallery. He brought us to an organic market where we ate tamales, a street vendor to rehydrate with fresh fruit juices (we had hibiscus and cucumber lime) and we were welcomed into a studio where we witnessed the traditional art of weaving textiles. Our last stop was at a chocolate shop, where we partook in a tasting. The tour covered sections of Centro and Xochimilco neighbourhoods.
*The people that do these tours are true gems that provide a lovely service. They live off the tips they are given for this service, so make sure to bring some cash. Oaxaca Free Walking Tour
2. Visit Monte Alban
The Zapotec’s temples rest high on the hills just 9kms outside of Oaxaca. They were a civilization that ruled for over 800 years.
We walked the grounds on foot, zigzagging up the steep stairs to reach the heights that led us to open vistas for as far as the eye could see.
Learning about a civilization that understood astronomy and the correlation to cultivating crops, along with hearing mystical legends that have been passed down generations is a captivating experience.
We went with a tour group, which I think is essential. I can’t imagine, just walking around staring at these giant mysterious temples without having someone to break down all the essentials and serve up juicy tidbits of information. Our tour guide answered all our questions and created a picture for us that we could never have captured from textbooks alone.
*Try to do a tour early in the day before it gets too hot, there is very little shade to be found on the premises. Bring your hats, sunscreen, and water. Also, bring some change for TP for the toilets. The Mont Alban Half-Day Guided Tour will only take up about 5 hours of your day.
3. Hit the Streets of Centro
Centro is made up of two areas called Zocaló (south) and Santo Domingo (north). They are separated by Avenida de la Independencia and are within easy walking distance from one another.
Feel the energy of the city and let yourself wander around. You will notice that most of the buildings are colonial in style and don’t reach higher than a few stories. This is due to a couple of reasons; one being that the area has a history of earthquakes, so the buildings were designed with this in mind and the other, is so that everyone can have an unobstructed view of the lush green mountains in the background.
Make your way to the Zocaló, and the Plaza de la Constitución; it is the main square and heart of the city. People gather here to sit under the trees and watch the world go by. You can grab some street food or homemade ice cream being offered by locals carrying coolers slung over their shoulders. Get your shoes shined or grab a balloon for your little one… There is always something going on here. You’ll see people dancing and performing in the streets day or night.
The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption can be seen here as well. It was built in 1535 and has been rebuilt a few more times due to earthquakes. One evening, we saw a video mapping projection light up on the surface of the church. This was pretty cool.
*In this area, you will most likely be approached by people on the streets trying to sell tours. I would avoid this chaos. Go with recommendations from your hotel or purchase online.
The Santo Domingo area is full of cool art installations and funky rooftop bars. It caters to tourists and can be a bit pricey.
It is a beautiful area full of historic buildings, pedestrian cobblestone streets, art galleries, pottery, textile shops, Mezcalerias and nightclubs.
Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán
A baroque-style church that is captivating from the outside, but even more stunning once you set foot inside. There isn’t an inch of this church that hasn’t been intricately sculpted, gilded, or adorned in some matter.
4. Jardín Etnobotánico
Just behind Santo Domingo church the former monastery turned Botanical Gardens can be found. The gardens started up in 1998 and consist of a fantastical collection of native plant species from all over the state. A large garden bouquet displaying the gems of the diverse regions of Oaxaca.
Due to some previous vandalism, patrons are only permitted entry with a ticketed tour. They have both English and Spanish tours. Spots are limited, so arrive early to get your tickets (only 1 English tour each morning. 100pesos)
5. Go on a Scavenger hunt for Murals
If you have read our previous blogs, you will know that this is something we look forward to in any city that is known for its street art. We chose to do this on our own, but some well-known tours are fantastic if you want a more detailed description of the art and the artists.
I will try to tame myself and limit the number of photos I post in this section 🙂
You will stumble upon murals throughout the city, but there are a few key areas that we would like to direct you to. They are the Jalatlaco (pronounced: Ha-lat-lack-oh) and Xochimilco (pronounced: Sow-Chee-meel-kow) neighborhoods. I personally would pick one neighbourhood per day. That way, you can take your time in each area. Both neighbourhoods are walkable from the city center, just in different directions.
We were lucky enough one evening to witness an artist working on a mural. We just sat back for a while and appreciated witnessing his process. Murals are an expression of what is meaningful to someone… What an amazing way to communicate and leave a mark.
6. Head over to Jalatlaco
This little barrio is just a short 15-20 minute walk, south-east from the city center. It is a hip and vibrant neighbourhood bursting with colour! The murals here can be found around every corner and alleyway! It is quiet in the morning and slowly comes to life in the afternoon.
Full of boutique hotels, coffee shops, eateries, cute little shops, and galleries. The community has an artsy hip vibe full of creatives and musicians. We thoroughly enjoyed an afternoon popping in and out of these local shops. We felt welcomed and enjoyed the genuine enthusiasm they displayed in sharing their creations and culture.
We went into a shop where I found some beautiful jewelry and ended up talking to a tattoo artist set up in the back, where he shared his drawings with us, and we shared some life experiences with one another. He was drawn to my tattoo that I got after my dad passed. We realized how much we had in common. This is why we love to travel. It reminds us of how similar and connected we all really are.
If you are looking for a quiet area to stay outside the City Center, this is an excellent choice! Most places close early, so a good night’s sleep can be more obtainable.
7. Explore Oaxaca’s oldest barrio, Xochimilco
If you walk north of Centro, you will be delighted to find yourself in Xochimilco. You’ll be at a higher vantage point, in what we thought was the best part of Oaxaca City. It has a calm, family-friendly atmosphere, that had us returning on multiple occasions.
A distinguishable mark of the neighbourhood is the arched aqueduct that was built in the 1700s to provide the city with drinking water from the runoff of the Cerro de San Felipe mountains until 1931 when an earthquake of such magnitude took place that left the water source unobtainable.
There are a bunch of bakeries, workshops and cool little hidden restaurants and little shops, so have fun peaking in, as you walk the cobblestone streets… of course, the murals here are a huge highlight!
We had a fun experience that we still laugh about. We entered a little shop, where one of the owners offered us an artisanal mezcal tasting, which we obliged. Our Spanish is limited, to say the least. The gentleman pulled out his translation app, and that’s when the fun started. We thoroughly appreciated his patience and sense of humour. He just kept them coming until Tyler had to take his sweater off, at which point the guy translated “Take it easy!” This back and forth went on for a while. This was one of our most memorable experiences. We try not to let our inability to speak another language, get in the way of a good time.
Corazón de Cacao is a chocolate shop in the area that our tour guide took us to. You can do a tasting of their unique flavours and learn about the family’s long-time tradition of making this cherished delight, they will even make you up an authentic hot chocolate, which is a cool thing to watch!
8. Lucha Libre Wrestling
Have you ever seen the 2006 movie Nacho Libre starring Jack Black? Well, the movie was shot right here in Oaxaca City!
If you are as much of a wrestling fan as the locals of Oaxaca are, you might want to get yourself some tickets to one of the two venues that have weekly matches; Arena San Francisco (in town) and Arena Pepe Cisneros (15-minute taxi ride).
We missed out on this one but talked to travellers who went and said it was a great time and a cheap night out.
9. Hierve el Agua
A day spent at Hierve el Agua will leave you feeling like your chakras are aligned!
An hour’s drive outside of Oaxaca City in the Sierra Madre Valley is one of the only two known petrified waterfalls in the world.
The natural minerals flowing over the cliffs have formed this unique calcified formation that is something special to behold. I honestly couldn’t imagine taking a trip to Oaxaca and missing out on this! Sitting in the natural springs with a view like no other is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
When you arrive, you have some options. You can head through the area with some vendors where you can get fresh fruit, drinks, and some great food. This is where we tried Tlayudas (tlah-yoo-das) for the first time. It’s kind of like a Mexican pizza cooked over fire with black bean paste, meat and veg and some local stringy quesillo cheese. Yummy!
If you want to do the hiking part, you’ll want to head to the right to find the trail. There are Spanish-speaking guides in the vicinity that you can pay to take you on the trails. The trails can be a bit challenging, so keep that in mind and bring water. Ty had no problem hiking the trail on his own. There were lots of people that day, so he felt comfortable.
Now if you aren’t hungry yet and just want to see the goods and soak your bones, you can do as I did and continue past all the vendors on the left-hand side, where you’ll find an easy path that will take you to the springs. There is a changing room down there, so besides bringing some water with you, you’re all set!
*Some of the areas by the water can be slippery. I had a good chuckle with some ladies I met down there. We were laughing at one another crawling in and out of some of these pools. We were the opposite of the graceful women you see posing for their Instagram accounts. We looked more like drunk little babies! 🙂
Our tour included a stop where we tried artisanal bread and tamales, and stopped at a flower farm that was in full bloom (these flowers were used to decorate the doorways and alters during Dia de los Muertos).
On the return ride home, we stopped at El Rey De Matatlán Mezcal Artesanal. This was an informative tour explaining how mezcal is made with a tasting at the end. It explains how much work goes into producing the product and gave us a huge appreciation for it!
*If you have a vehicle, I would probably do this on your own because the tour guides aren’t allowed to do much besides provide transportation.
10. See how many VW Beetles you can Spot
One could end up with a bruised arm in this city! “Punch buggy, no punchbacks!”
Mexico keeps proving to be the place where VW beetles roam, and there is a reason for this… The T1 model was manufactured in the state of Pueblo from 1964 to 2003.
In the 80’s the Mexican government gave a huge tax break to VW to make this little bug affordable to the masses.
At one point, over 70,000 beetles were being driven by taxi services.
This easy-to-repair vehicle and its accessible parts have kept the beloved “family member” on the streets today.
11. Markets, Markets and more Markets!
If you are a market lover, Oaxaca will not disappoint. I would recommend, spacing them out if you have a few days in town because it is a lot to take in and a person’s eyes can only take so much!
Oaxaca Artisan Market
This is a good one to wet your whistle… meaning it’s large enough to provide a wide variety of things, but not so large that you get overwhelmed. As you probably guessed, it is an art market. There is a really nice selection of handcrafted goods from the surrounding villages. Wood carvings, pottery, jewelry, and textiles and all that in between.
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
It is just a short walk from the Artisan Market. This market is known for the Carne Asada (Grilled Meat Hall), and all the smoked meat. We went there a couple of times for lunch. The prices were good, so we tried a few different things. Take a moment and walk around a couple of times to establish which place is calling your name… and follow the locals, they know what’s up! Besides hitting up the smoked meat hall (Pasillo de Humo) make sure to try some mole here.
Mercado Benito Juárez
This market was named after the first indigenous president. The market seems to go on for miles. If you are looking for hats, they have hats. If you want a pair of leather shoes or maybe a belt, well they have those too. You could find yourself a whole outfit here, no problem.
As soon as we entered, a lady was selling a few varieties of Chapulines, which are dried grasshoppers. They are often eaten as a snack with cerveza. They come in a variety of flavours. A couple of years ago, we tried these on a pizza in Sayulita and we didn’t really care for them, but here in Oaxaca, we found ourselves enjoying them. We went for the chilli lime ones… they were our personal favourite!
I could walk around here for hours, just admiring the shelves and shelves of mezcal, giant bags of chilis, and bins full of fresh veggies and fruit in varieties we’ve never seen before. I found myself imagining living here and shopping for all my weekly groceries.
La Cosecha Organic Market
You’ve heard of the saying, good things come in small packages? Well, that’s how I like to describe this market. This little organic food market is a peaceful place to sit outside in the shade while munching on some incredible dishes. They are known for having some very tasty vegan options too! We had the tamales and a rice dish with seafood that was next level. Make sure to try one of their fresh fruit juice options as well. We met a lady from New Orleans who now lives in the hills outside of town and she said she comes here each week for the food. I think it has a perfect balance of decent prices, a nice atmosphere and friendly service.
Central Abastos Market
Ok, this market is the Mac daddy of markets! It’s as though, it has everything from all the other markets combined. So, If you only have time to see one during your time in Oaxaca, I’d make it this one. However, if you get overwhelmed easily, you might want to skip it. The prices here are the best in the city.
*There are over 20 markets to discover. We really enjoyed walking around in the early evening and stumbling upon little ones all over the city. Make sure to walk down different streets and peek inside courtyards. We were told that if a door is open, not to be afraid to have a peek inside… so I will encourage you, to do the same!
12. Tree of Tule (Tree of Life)
If you are staying a bit longer in the city, a little trip out to the town of Santa Maria del Tule is a nice way to spend a few hours of your day. The jewel of the town is a Montezuma Cypress tree that is over 2,000 years old, 137ft tall and 46ft wide.
The town is only 6kms east of Oaxaca. So, you can taxi, hop on a bus, or ride a bike. You can rent a bike or even hop on a bike tour and have someone lead the way.
The reason it has been given the nickname Tree of Life is due to all the animal-type shapes that the tree has taken on.
*We visited Oaxaca during the Diá de Los Muertos celebrations. It deserved its own blog. Check it out if you’re interested! So glad we went! Things you can expect to see during Dia de los Muertos in Oaxaca City, Mexico
Oaxaca is a beautiful example of how people from different cultural backgrounds, can proudly honour their traditions and yet move forward in today’s world. It is not surprising that so many people are trying to move there. It had a bit of everything we love… the only thing missing was a body of water, although there are beaches a few hours away that one could visit to get their fix.
“I went to Oaxaca and he told me to stay”
Thanx for stopping by!
Check out these blogs for more cool things to do in Mexico!
