Ok, I must seriously focus myself! Thinking about this city gets me so excited that my mind shoots off in a thousand different directions. Have you ever travelled somewhere you’ve never been before and yet it felt like home.. like you belonged there? Well, that is how I feel about New Orleans. I’ve heard people complain about this city and its issues, but nothing can change my mind about how I feel. I love NOLA (New Orleans, Louisiana… that’s what the locals call it) and it is my privilege to share with you why.
The city is what it is today because of its people and its history. The culture oozes out of every corner. New Orleanians have endured some hard times, and because of this they have learned how to persevere… pulling up their bootstraps and getting shit done. Throughout the year they celebrate their community and the milestones along the way.
I can describe NOLA as a diamond, formed over time. In the last 300-plus years, the city was founded by the French, taken over by the Spanish and purchased by the United States.
It endured the Battle in the War of 1812, to protect its land from the British Army that was trying to possess it. It became one of the largest ports in the country exporting cotton on the back of the slavery trade, in which these slaves endured a hardship of immeasurable proportions.
Despite the strong arm of the Confederacy, the Union from the North prevailed in the Civil War in the 1860s and finally put a stop to slavery, although segregation continued until 1960.
In 2005 the city was devastated after being hit by Hurricane Katrina, they banded together to rebuild the place that was theirs.
This is just a brief description, a drop in the sand of time, but hopefully, it helps you gain some understanding of the city’s history. You can feel the pride in what they have overcome and who they are. It can be seen through their art, tasted in their cuisine, felt through their music, and experienced just by being in their presence.
There are over 130 Festivals each year in New Orleans, which means it doesn’t matter which time of year you decide to visit. There will always be something to celebrate, and a parade somewhere to attend. Actually, you can go down to city hall and pay a small-ish fee for a parade of your very own, including a marching band and police escort.
This leads me to the first of many things to do in Nola….
Attend a Festival
One of my wildest dreams would be to buy a property in Nola and spend an entire year there, going to as many festivals as my fun-time meter will allow.
Oak Street Po-boy Festival
Do you know what a Po-boy is? It’s a traditional Louisiana sandwich made with crispy French bread, topped with lettuce, tomato, pickle, remoulade sauce and some kind of meat…. I am a fan of the oyster/shrimp combo! Well, guess what? They even have a festival with the Po-Boy as the headliner. It’s called the Oak Street Po-boy Festival. It takes place each November in the Uptown/Garden District.
Mardi Gras
Mardi Gras is probably the most famous of all the festivals. The “official” holiday lands on Fat Tuesday, which is the last day before Lent. Mardi Gras is French for Fat Tuesday and was named to signify the last day to eat fatty, rich foods before the fasting of Lent which is associated with Christianity and the catholic religion.
The festivities get going a month leading up to the big day. You’ll see people dressed up in costumes. The more traditional is purple gold and green to signify justice, power, and faith. We on the other hand decided to do something a little different because we heard it can be difficult finding each other in the crowds. We dressed as “Where’s Waldo & Wendy”. I think it was a solid choice. I can’t even tell you how many times we heard people yelling out “I found Waldo!” We ended up in a few dozen pictures that day.
I particularly enjoyed all the creativity that went into the various costumes and the ladies in Drag sprinkling fairy dust around.
There are so many parades leading up to this day. My recommendation is to get a list of when and where they take place so you can choose the ones that interest you the most. Arrive early if you plan on bringing a chair and hunkering down for a while. We noticed big groups of people set up for the day with coolers, music and even smokers cooking up whole hogs. We were buzzing with all the excitement and mostly walked from one area to the next, taking it all in and stopping to purchase drinks and food along the way. You can consume alcohol anywhere in NOLA, so “down the hatch” people!
April has two of the most popular festivals in New Orleans:
The French Quarter Festival
The French Quarter Festival is all about music and food. There are over 20 stages set up all over the quarter and Jackson Square with musicians playing Jazz, Latin, R&B, Zydeco, Nola funk, Swing, and Rock from early morning into the night. This is the largest free musical festival in the south. Over the 4 days, more than 200 musical acts are provided by the city of New Orleans. NOLA’s top restaurants are there to represent, showcasing the flavours of Louisiana to be noshed and enjoyed.
New Orleans Jazz Festival
New Orleans Jazz Festival takes place at The Fair Grounds Racecourse, over two weekends from the end of April into the first week of May. Some may think only jazz is played, but this celebration of arts and music has drawn in artists such as The Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Lumineers, Mumford & Sons and Ed Sheeran, just to name a few. They announce the line-up in mid-January, but much like Mardi Gras, you’ll want to book your flights and accommodation way in advance.
During these festivals, the city is packed. It is best to use the RTA, the public bus or bicycle to get around. There isn’t any outside food or drink allowed, but no need to worry because there are tons of food vendors to fill your boots… just don’t bring cash because there on a “cashless” system.
St. Patrick’s Day Festival
The St. Patrick’s Day Festival is another favourite and not just for the Irish. They have multiple parades, block parties with music, dancing and of course green beer, and Irish Stew. Everyone slips into their green attire and comes out to join in the merriment. Not only will you see green beads flying through the air, but you will also see carrots, cabbages, and Brussels sprouts too! They used to throw potatoes and onions as well, but have recently been banned because apparently, some people were pitching them to the crowd like Roger Clemens and the claims started rolling in. It’s tradition to collect these veggies and bring them back home and whip up some corned beef and cabbage.
Halloween would also be an epic time to visit. They celebrate it for the entire month of October. The only time I personally would avoid going to NOLA would be in the summer months when the humidity is at an all-time high, although if you had a pool where you were staying you could have some reprieve from the heat.
The French Quarter
The French Quarter is what most people think of when someone mentions New Orleans. It is the oldest neighbourhood in NOLA. This lively eclectic area is a mix of Spanish and French architecture with vibrant-coloured buildings and balconies adorned with lacy iron railings. Many of them are restaurants where you can sit, enjoy a meal and people watch from up above.
Take your time to walk through the streets, there’s something cool and exciting around every corner. Some of the best places to hang out are the courtyards in behind these buildings.
If you’re a first-timer to NOLA, you’ll want to check out Pat O’Brien’s (718 St. Peter St.). Sit in the courtyard by the flaming fountain and sip on their famous Hurricane cocktail. The cocktail was invented in the 1940s when local liquor was hard to come by and rum was coming up the Mississippi from the Caribbean in large quantities. After some experimentation, they came up with a passion fruit/rum cocktail (heavy on the rum) in a Hurricane shaped glass and the rest is history.
Before we arrived in NOLA, we decided that a concert at the House of Blues was a must!! We booked tickets to see The Devil Makes Three… which just happened to land on our first night which really got things started off right! They were incredible! We met some great people and even bumped into our Airbnb manager!
Take a walk around Jackson Square, it’s always a happening place. If you’re looking for affordable art, there are artists set up all around the square. The permits require that all the art must be original and made by the person selling it. It is a great way to support local artists.
Have a beignet and chicory coffee at Café Du Monde (800 Decatur St.) This establishment has been around since 1862. It is open 24hrs a day, so you can go whenever the moment strikes you… although expect to wait in line during the day because everyone else is heading there too! The beignets are arguably the best in the city. They are covered, and I mean covered in white icing powder… so do yourself a favour and avoid wearing black.
Right next to Café Du Monde is the French Market. It is an open-aired market that is spread out over 5 blocks. This is the location where the Choctaw Indians used to trade with those coming in on the river. Here you’ll find local produce, handmade crafts, food stalls and souvenirs.
Royal Street in the quarter, is for the art enthusiast and antique lover. There is an abundance of art galleries and boutique shops dripping with Southern charm and style.
You will see a lot of recommendations to see jazz at Preservation Hall. We went, and although you can see some incredible musicians, I will respectfully say that it is over-rated. There can be incredibly long line-ups and it lacks the organic enjoyment you get from seeing a band at a Bar. Instead, we recommend seeing live music on Frenchman St. and the Maple Leaf Bar. I will explain more about Frenchman St. soon… As far as the Maple Leaf goes, we met a local who recommended this place. All the band members of Rebirth were in town, and he said that we should take advantage of this rarity and go see them. The Bar is far removed from the touristy spots. It was a good 15min taxi away up Oak St. in Uptown. We were so glad we went. We had an authentic experience and met some amazing people! I also must mention the amazing homestyle food that a local lady was selling outside of the bar… we grabbed her Jambalaya and engulfed it!
Make your way to Hotel Monteleone (214 Royal St). You may not be able to afford to stay at this bougie Hotel, but you most certainly can have a look inside and see if there’s a seat available at the Carousel Bar. We found a free table right beside the bar and jumped in as soon as we saw a couple grabbing their bags to go. They make good cocktails, and it is fun to take a ride on the merry-go-round if you can bamboozle your way in there… you might have some luck going mid-week, around 11am or between 2-5pm.
Frenchman Street
Now you will find music all over the quarter, but Frenchman Street has a more local feel with fewer tourists. It’s a long street in the Faubourg/Marigny area with back-to-back restaurants and nightclubs showcasing authentic New Orleans music from some of the best musicians in the world. I was even taken aback by how talented the artists playing on the streets were! We spent a few evenings there and our favourite places for live music were Bamboula’s and The Spotted Cat.
Bamboula's
Right beside the Spotted Cat Music Club, you will find the Art Market. This is a weekly nighttime open-aired market with local flair. It is the perfect place to find locally made goods and art in all forms and unique gifts that people will be happy to receive. Ty scored himself a slick leather wallet and I found a couple of pieces of art that made their way home with us.
We also had some of the best food on this street. We ate at Adolfo’s one evening and I had to stop myself from licking the plate.
When the late-night hunger hits, head on into Dats Dogs, because they make a damn good dog. They are gourmet and have a lot of flavours to choose from. We must have stared at the menu for 10 minutes before we made our decision.
*If you’re short on time and trying to decide what part of the city to spend an evening, we’d choose Frenchman St. over Bourbon St. every time!
Magazine Street.
For a relaxing day of shopping head to Magazine Street. It is a 6-mile stretch from Uptown to the Lower Garden District, full of locally owned restaurants, boutique shops and drinking holes. This neighbourhood is a quiet refuge from the touristy parts of the city, making it a good location for families trying to choose where to stay.
Ty found a “men’s only” barbershop, Aiden Gill For Men, where they specialize in old-fashioned style cuts and straight-razor shaves.
While he was being pampered, I headed to some more shops where I was greeted by the most welcoming women who gave me the low down on some places to go in the area, including the best Po-boys. Later, I headed back to meet up with Ty at the Barber Shop and he came out looking like a dapper gentleman…. we decided to check out that Po-boy place, Joey K’s and it was as good as they said it would be! This area is where we spent Fat Tuesday watching the parade.
Crescent Park, Marigny / Bywater
Crescent Park is the perfect place to ride bikes, run or go for a stroll. The city has developed this 4km stretch along the banks of the Mississippi River with beautiful landscaping full of native tropical plants and sculptures along the way to reflect the industrial environment it resides in.
In the Marigny/Bywater area, you will see many colourful French cottages and shotgun houses, where the rooms are built one behind the other… so if you were to put a shotgun in the front door, the end of the barrel would aim right out to the back yard.
This part of the city has a vibrant art scene full of hipster hangouts, coffee shops and eateries.
Here is a list of our favourites…
Studio Be
This gallery is owned by the artist BMike himself. Many of his pieces pay homage to the people of NOLA after Hurricane Katrina. His art is displayed in the 35,000 sq. ft warehouse gallery at 2941 Royal St.
JAMNOLA
It is meant to represent Joy, Art, and Music. Over 30 artists are contributing to 17 exhibits; many of which provide that perfect Instagramable moment. There is an entry fee to experience these exhibits. It can be found at 2832 Royal St. (closed on Tues & Wed).
Music Box Village (4557 N. Rampart St.)
It is a super cool interactive sound garden made from scavenged metal. Open on weekends only from 12-6 pm.
Bacchanal Wine (600 Poland Ave)
Here you have a wine store in the front and a party in the back. There are many houses that have been turned into restaurants and this is one of them. Full of character and charm. You can nibble on charcuterie while sipping wine and listening to live music.
The Joint (701 Mazant St.)
Welcome to southern BBQ and hospitality at its finest. They serve up mouth-watering BBQ along with all the sides and sweet southern pies for dessert. This quirky place is fun and friendly, they’ll address you as doll and sweetheart and I gotta admit, I like it!
Dr. Bob Art Studio (3207 Chartres St.)
He is amongst the OG folk artists in the city. He welcomes everyone into his space but with a “Be nice or leave” call to order. He is a known legend of the community. His works of art can be found all over the city. You can have a look around, purchase some art and talk to the man himself. We found him to be charismatic and his stories interesting to say the least! Make sure to bring some cash with you because that is how Dr. Bob rolls.
True Mosaics Studio (2801 Chartres St.)
Laurel True is known for her creative works of art and mosaics. She is a respected artist that coaches and hosts workshops throughout the year. The space wasn’t open when we were there, but it is cool just to look at the mosaic art outside of the studio as well as the murals on the adjacent buildings. This pocket of the neighbourhood is where the fringe theatre and community all started… it is now called the Infringe Festival.
Elizabeth’s Restaurant (601 Gallier St.)
Everything is made from scratch, and everything is soooooooooo good. They have fried green tomatoes, biscuits and gravy, gumbo, and their ever-so-popular praline bacon. I really wanted to try their duck waffles! We are definitely going back there the next time we’re in town!
Markey’s Bar (640 Louisa St.)
We were hoping to find a cool dive bar while in the area and we found one! We had one of our most memorable nights here. We walked in and sat up at the bar and were instantly made to feel comfortable by the staff and locals. We had the best time getting to know everyone, and appreciated the prices. We met a local that was a location scout and was one of the people that found locations for the show Treme and True Detective. He sparked our interest and later that week, we did our own tour of locations in the True Detective season that took place in and around NOLA.
Oak Alley Plantation.
Visit a plantation and learn about its history. We are recommending Oak Alley because we were impressed by their commitment to honouring the truthfulness of what really took place to the slaves on the plantation. We stayed in one of their little cottages on the property for the evening and ate at the restaurant.
It happened to be Valentine’s Day and they served a 7 course meal. The head chef came out to greet the guests and explain each dish as it was being brought out. I must say, it was a weird feeling staying there, I felt emotional walking the grounds and thinking about what took place here. Oak Alley Plantation has been in many movies, you may have seen Midnight Bayou or Interview with the Vampire. Beyoncés “Déjà Vu” music video was also filmed there under the 300 year old Oak trees.
Take in a Crawfish Boil
The best time to partake in this deliciousness is February to May. Get ready to roll up your sleeves and have butter dripping down your arms and your face! We did just that, and I loved every minute of it. There are many places in town to choose from. You can order by pound or plate. During Mardi Gras, we saw neighbourhood parties out on the front lawn where they through down long sheets of brown paper and dumped pots of crawfish with corn and potatoes… looked like our kind of party!
Avery Island and the Tobasco Factory
Do you love Tobasco? Are you looking to see some things out of the city? Well go for a drive and see where this hot sauce is made and have a look around the Avery Islands, Jungle Gardens and Bird City wildfowl refuge. If you don’t have time, don’t worry because they have a tasting store right in the French Quarter (Tabasco Country Store) where you can learn about where tobacco came from and bring home some unique flavours and souvenirs for yourself.
Alligator Tour
Go on an Alligator tour in the Bayou with a guide, from the safety of a boat… or at least I think it was safe ;))
There are many different swamp tours offered just outside of New Orleans. You can do them by kayak, airboat or large pontoon-type boats. The airboats look like a lot of fun, but because it was February, we thought the airboat might be a bit chilly. We decided to go with Cajun Pride Swamp Tours. The tour is located in a Wildlife Refuge only 25 miles from the city. We had a rental car, but they do offer pick-up in town. This tour gives you a bang for your buck. Before heading out on the boat, you can purchase snacks from their shop, use the facilities and grab yourself a beer to sip on during your tour. Our guide grew up in the area and clearly was passionate about the wetlands and its history. We appreciated his sense of humour and storytelling capabilities.
While floating through the swamp we were surrounded by cypress trees covered in Spanish moss and a unique ecosystem inhabiting gators, turtles, a wide variety of birds and even some wild boars. Our captain fed a 12ft gator chicken from the boat and we got to see the impressive quick response and gnarly teeth as it snatched up its meal. At one point in the tour, he brought out a baby gator and we each had an opportunity to hold it, which was pretty cool.
City Park
This massive park is a gem! There is so much to do there…
The Botanical Gardens
The Museum of Art
A sculpture garden with over 90 pieces spread out over 11 acres
They have an 18-hole Disc Golf Course, an Amusement Park, tennis and pickle ball courts, mini golf and so much more!
Head to the Big Lake where you can rent cruiser bikes, tandem bikes, pedal boats, canoes, and kayaks…. they have it all! This park is huge, so having a mode of transportation is a fun way to cover a lot of the grounds.
We rented a paddle boat and had a good laugh at ourselves trying to get from one end to the other. I had forgotten how much work it was to maneuver these things!
This is the perfect place to bring a picnic and take time out to relax on your vacation. There are also some nice cafés and restaurants on the grounds.
Events and exhibits are happening all throughout the year. There is something here for everyone!
Algiers Point
Algiers is on the west bank of the Mississippi River. It is the second oldest neighbourhood in New Orleans, developed after the French Quarter. You can hop on a ferry at the Canal Street ferry terminal for $2 and arrive at Algiers Point in 10min. The ferry runs every day from 6 am-10:30 pm. This is a quant quiet area and the perfect vantage point of the city’s skyline. We adored walking along the riverbank and through the streets admiring the charming homes and local character.
We decided to check out the Dry Dock Café (133 Delaronde St.) for lunch because they had a lovely outdoor area that provided a nice spot to relax and take in the view of the area. We had red beans & rice, catfish, and a bowl of gumbo. Everything was delicious… the people next to us said the alligator sausage and Po’ boys were really good. The beers here are icy cold… we asked for a couple to go and headed around town exploring some more.
We continued walking along the riverbank and spotted a warehouse for Mardi Gras World, which houses many of the floats for the parades and a location where the artist can build and create. Some of the floats were outside that day, so we had a look around.
**Blaine Kerns Mardi Gras World is by the convention center in downtown NOLA, you can book tickets to walk around the massive workspace and get up close and personal to these floats and statues as the artists are working on them.
The Algiers Folk Art Zone and Blues Museum (207 Leboef St.) is definitely worth a look. Learn about some of NOLA’S greats from the artistic works of Charles Gillam. He brings the history of New Orleans music to life, in a wide range of mediums from wood carvings, plaster and paint in this eclectic home turned into a fantastical museum.
We love a good Dive Bar, and we loved Old Point Bar (545 Patterson Rd.). This is the neighbourhood place to go, where the staff are welcoming, and the regulars are happy to chat. They give generous pours at a good price. This iconic dive bar is covered in old licence plates and pictures of famous musicians and actors who have been to the bar, many of which became friends with the owner while filming in NOLA. They have live music from Thursday-Sunday that starts up around 5 pm. This is a place where you never know who might just stop by and play the piano while in the area. A little gem for sure!
Take a tour, any tour… just make it a walking tour.
We had such a good time going on a few walking tours. New Orleans is not the kind of city to do a bus tour, many of the streets you can only access by foot or have such narrow roads, the tour busses don’t venture on.
I highly recommend Free Tours by Foot given by Robi Gilmor or Andrew. They grew up in New Orleans and really know their stuff. Because these tours are free and the people are depending on the tips to make a living, they put a lot of time and effort into making them a memorable experience. We did a Ghost tour, a cemetery tour, and the Voodoo Tour.
All three were so much fun. We learned about the history and some eerie stories that gave me goosebumps, the cajun mythical creature the Rougarou, gangster ambushes, the prohibition… we saw the tombstones of famous people passed and the pyramid-shaped tombstone Nicolas Cage had constructed, for his future departure.
We learned about Voodoo and how it is nothing like Hollywood has depicted it in the movies. Voodoo is based on pure light and is full of beautiful traditions. There are so many misconceptions about this religion. Because the slaves were prohibited from practicing, they had to worship in private, and as we have learned from history, people tend to create stories about the things they don’t know or are too ignorant to try to understand.
People are always trying to find a way to make a buck, so be mindful that some of what you’ll see around New Orleans may be a gimmick and have nothing to do with the true Voodoo religion.
I would have liked to do the Tour of the Treme District. Our tour guide told us a bit about it. It’s the first African American neighbourhood, rich in history and culture. It is at the edge of the French Quarter and includes Armstrong Park. This is a 32-acre park named after Louis Armstrong, the famous jazz player. We hope to do this one, next time we’re in NOLA.
These tours are one of my favourite things to do while travelling. The people genuinely love their city and are happy to share their knowledge as well as give some stellar recommendations for what else the city has to offer, including where they eat. NOLA has some of the best food I’ve ever eaten. There are more restaurants per capita than in any other city in the States, so there are also some really horrible places mixed among them. Save yourself and ask the locals where to go!
I feel like I could go on for days about all the beauty this city has to offer. It is a place where everyone is welcome and encouraged to express themselves. You can do it in a few days, but to really soak it in I would go for a week… as I said before I would live here part-time if I could, so I am absolutely biased.
Some little things to know….
*Be purposeful in where you go, there can be safe areas with unsafe pockets. So don’t go walking around after dark in areas you’re unsure of. Know where you are and take taxis or an Uber at night.
*Never leave a drink unattended and don’t accept free drinks from people. This place can be a fun party, but make sure to have a buddy system in place and never leave your smashed friend behind.
*Don’t wear expensive flashy jewelry, some of the poorest people in America live in New Orleans, and desperation can lead to people seeking opportunity… don’t be that person to provide it.
*Yes, you guessed it, there are pickpockets in the busy areas where the crowds are, so be smart about where you keep your valuables.
*There is a 50yr old scam to watch out for… someone will come up to you and ask about your shoes and then quickly start shinning/buffing them and then try to pressure you for $ for their service… just say “no” firmly, they will quickly understand you are in the know.
*Most importantly I want to say that we have never been to such a large city where the locals went out of their way to help us more!
There were two different times when we were lost… one day we were walking in the Bywater neighbourhood looking for a restaurant attached to a house and a local person saw us looking around and actually stopped their car at an intersection and asked if we were lost… she then pulled over to give us directions… another time we were out late at night and were trying to find an address to book an Uber and a person came over and helped us out. We had people approach us and ask where we were from and offer recommendations of what to do and where to go and even met a guy that invited us over to meet his mom and see a picture of her pet alligator Knucklehead… I’m not saying you should go to a stranger’s house like we did, but I think you get my point.
Embrace the culture! Dance to the music! Talk to the locals, because they are the heart and soul of the city!
Thanks for stopping by!